Refrigerators & freezers
Refrigerator not cooling: what to check first
The light comes on, maybe the freezer is still cold, but milk is going warm. Most cases come down to airflow, defrost or a fan, and a few checks narrow it down before anyone visits.
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Safe checks before you book
- Measure, don't guess. Leave a glass of water on a middle shelf for three hours and put a kitchen thermometer in it. Around 3–4 °C is right. At 7 °C or more, move perishables to a cooler.
- Look at the back wall of the freezer. A thick white frost layer over the rear panel means the defrost system has stopped working and ice is blocking the air that should flow down into the fridge.
- Listen with the doors shut. You should hear a fan inside the freezer and a low hum from the compressor at the bottom. Silence from either is worth noting when you book.
- Clear the vents and coils. Overpacked shelves can block the air vents between the two compartments. On models with coils underneath, vacuum the dust from the front grille.
Unplug first. Switch off power (and close the water or gas supply where it applies) before looking behind or inside an appliance. If anything feels unsafe, stop and call.
What usually causes it
| Defrost failure | A heater, sensor or control that stops the coil from defrosting. The coil ices over and airflow to the fridge stops. Common, and usually a moderate repair. |
|---|---|
| Evaporator or condenser fan | If a fan stops, the cold doesn't move or the compressor can't shed heat. Fans are typically straightforward to replace. |
| Air damper or control board | The flap that lets freezer air into the fridge can stick closed, or the board that drives it can fail. |
| Compressor or refrigerant | The expensive end. If the sealed system has failed, you get the price first, and on an older fridge the finding may recommend replacement. |
When to stop and call
Food above 7 °C for more than a couple of hours, a burning smell, or a compressor that clicks on and off every few minutes. Unplug it and book.
What the visit costs
The diagnostic is free when you approve the repair and it's completed. You get the cause, the parts, labour and total in writing before any work. If you don't go ahead, it's $89 + tax for a home electric appliance, or $149 + tax for a gas appliance.
Repairs that fix this
Refrigerator defrost system repairThe defrost heater melts frost off the evaporator coil a few times a day; a sensor and a timer or…Evaporator fan motor replacementThe fan inside the freezer moves cold air over the coil and into the fridge…Condenser fan motor replacementOn fridges with coils underneath, a fan at the bottom back cools the condenser and…Compressor start relay and overload replacementThe relay and overload help the compressor start and protect it from…Refrigerator control board repairThe board reads temperature sensors and runs the compressor, fans and…Refrigerator air damper repairThe damper opens and closes to let freezer air into the fridge…Refrigerator sealed system and compressor repairThe sealed system is the compressor, coils and…
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